Pat turkey dry with paper towel. Carefully separate skin from breast with fingers. Slide butter under skin on each side of breast (about 1 cube of cold butter slices). Generously salt and pepper inside cavity.
Put in cavity:
1 onion cut in half (skins on)
1 whole garlic bulb cut in half (skins on)
Sprays of fresh thyme, rosemary and sage
1 lemon cut in half
Tie legs together with string. Rub olive oil over outside of turkey. Generously salt and pepper (sea salt). Rub about 1/4 cup brown sugar. Top with some fresh thyme leaves.
Bake at 325° for about 2 1/2 hours or until 160°. Baste about 2-3 times during baking. Let rest covering with foil for 15 minutes before serving.
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